Implementing Agency

Textiles committee, Mumbai Maharashtra

About Cluster :

The weaving activity was initiated in 1409, during the regime of Gaur Ganesh Danu Mardhandev. Saree weaving was practiced during 1683 - 1694 during the ruling of Nadia king Rudra Roy. The production got systematized and was well organized leading to good recognition during the period of Mughal empire. Saree was exported to Afghanistan, Iran, Arab Greece & Turkey. The healthy trend continued till the early twentieth century.

The British controlled the industry through their East India Company. Those who opposed were severely punished. Finally the control of East India Company came to an end with the intervention of Governor General Kolkata, for the Common representation of grief of the united weavers.

The product had its unique specific proposition in the market for its quality of yarn used in weaving. Hand Spun Yarn of 250 - 300 s, which is beyond the scope of mill, was used for weaving, which could counterfeit even the imported cotton yarn of Manchester.

Shri Darga Das Kastha subsequently introduced barrel Dobby during 1920 - 1925, facilitating the conversion of the throw shuttle to Fly Shuttle. Later Shri Debbendra Nath Mukherjee introduced the Jacquard Machine, and this facilitated a broader cross section of new designs in the Market. It is learnt that 100 hook capacity Jacquard was first installed by Shri Jatindra Nath Lohori for producing varieties during the third decade of twenty century. During the same time sectional warping and sizing was introduced by Shri Hazari to produce a warp of 350 yards in length. The Santipur sarees in the past were very popular for the fine & uniform texture. The sarees are termed as per the design used in the extra warp meant for side border. The ground base is Cotton but the extra warp or border different textiles yarns Muga, Twisted Cotton, Zari, Gold & silver are used.

The Bengal Small Scale Aids Industry Act during the early eighties (1980 -83), was instrumental support of the government for the growth of the Handloom industry. As per the act financial aid to a maximum of Rs 10,000/- in shape of 50% grant & 50 % Loan was provided to the individual weavers for purchase of looms and Margin money.

During the mid eighties and later in the mid nineties 1995, there were weaver movements for the wage hikes but were unsuccessful for the suppression by Mahajans.

At Present there are about 20,000 working looms and 60,000 persons involved directly / indirectly in the weaving and preparatory activities. The women basically undertake the preparatory works like separation of hanks, sizing, pirn winding. There are around 111 different weaving communities namely the "Pramanik" , "Kastha" , "Dalal" , "Khan" etc. etc. Majority of the weavers belong to Tantuvay community. All the weavers have good weaving skills for weaving saree on Jacquard looms.